Sean Hignett explores a shiny 21-
Become a century shopping center and former fishing village where artists gather.
This is the only city in the world on two continents: South-
Asia begins east of the Bosphorus; to its north-
To the east of the map is Europe.
Everything shoppers need can be found in Europe.
But there are differences.
The South is a famous market for bazaars and street markets.
The same is true for many tourist attractions west of Cape gold, including the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofya and Topkapi Palace; north-
The business center is east of the horn. Haggle or not?
Bargaining on big markets is essential, but it can be daunting, let alone time --consuming.
You may never get the price the Turks will get
The only benchmark is to ask yourself if you are satisfied with the UK standards.
Opposite the golden corner of the smart shopping area, the price is fixed and you may find it difficult to find someone who speaks English.
Shopping can be a nightmare. Enter . . .
Foreign expert of screaming shoppers, alias Marilyn Hill-
Henderson is a Turkish.
A network of reliable traders has been set up and foreigners who tell you when the price is right.
Unlike the tour guide, she did not charge a commission from the merchant.
You pay for her knowledge and experience, and she guarantees that real shoppers will save more than her expenses.
Screaming shopper: 212 257 7581 by Phone/Fax.
Up to four groups.
Big Bazaar with over 4,000 stores, Kapali Carsi-
Market coverage or Grand Bazaar-
It can be scary, but unlike other places, the seducer and the toucher do accept the first negative answer. For well-
Completed leather jacket from £ 60 (
Best goat up to £ 170skin)
Try Dogan Bilgili (
Sotakkeciler 93-95). Ercan May (
Turn kilims into an attractive bag£75;
Western boots for £ 35slippers, £7. Selvi (
Sell traditional tiles for 1 pound. Silk Shop (
Yaglikilar Cad 127)has hand-painted Bursa (Turkish)
Silk, 4 per meter. B Murat Hashas (
Add two traditional Turkish hats to make a "sausage" mat for £ 26;
12 fishermen's waistcoats50.
Antiques are concentrated in the center of the covered market. Erdun (
Serif Aga Sok 34-39)
In addition to aski, brass and copper are specially provided, and ceramic "eggs" are decorated "-
A replica of £ 5;
Antiques from £ 150.
Ladies in the harem are forbidden to appreciate themselves, so their mirrors are decorated with their backs and can be disguised by turning over the wall --
Replica in the Hall
Marked Silver, 8-
£ 50 in Gumus Lale (Old Bazaar 41).
Meerschaum is mined in Turkey and in Verliexport (
Old Bazaar, Serif Aga Sok 59)-boxes from £8; Sultan's-head pipe, £18. 50.
Turkish carpets are rich in the UK, so do your homework on quality and price before you leave.
You can get a local standard from the government.
Dosim with absolutely fixed price, no pester and every rug-
Most of them are copies of museum antiques.
Carefully woven, 340 per square meter; standard, £150.
In the greater Bazaar market, prices are largely determined by suppliers, so informed knowledge or expert companions are essential.
Hakan of the Otto Manor Empire (Cad 55)
I will give you the same message and happy travel, his merchandise fascinates both President Clinton and the president of the Soviet Union: from kilims, £ 70, to thousands of fine silk carpets.
Hassan Surrey, a quiet and culturally literate pedophile (
Cad Halcilar 60 is adjacent to fisceng)
, Specializing in antique carpets: 2,000-£3,000.
The former seminary at the back of the government carpet center, the Turkish handicraft center, now offers workshops for Turkish artisans.
Keep an eye on the ceramics of guley eidermere
Other crafts include handmade
Painting dolls, Islamic calligraphy, manuscript lighting and traditional copper soap boxes for £ 4. 50.
Across the market from Grand Bazaar is the second picturesque Sahaflar Carsisi
Sell some English books.
There's a flea nearby.
Expand the market over the weekend to fill the square.
Walking distance from Spice Market (see "Food")to the wood-ware area -
Pe and mortar, 1 pound. 30;
The cradle of the painting, collapsed by carrying, 2; wooden bucket (
Think of patio planting), £4;
Inlaid step high Board from 2.
Otakoy, north of Golden Horn, was once a small fishing village, but now it has become a gathering place for artists --
There is a flea market here every Sunday, but Kapi Asmalik sells £ 40 decorative Turkestani doorway hangouts and £ 20 window hangings on the street every day.
Most of Istanbul's department stores are in the north.
Along the east side of the Golden Horn of Istiklal Cad, a pedestrian lane guided by antique trams, lined with elegant consulate buildings.
Further away, the Nisantasi district is more upscale.
Abdi Ipekci Cad is a street in Turkish and international fashion
Try Mapa on the 26 th.
Casa Club Tesfikiye Cad 117 of Tes is equivalent to the habitat of Turkey.
Free shuttle from some hotels to sparkling brass hotel Akmerkez-and-
The glass mall, which matches anything offered in California, has 254 stores, including top department stores, and of course Marks & Spencer.
Antiques from Istiklal Cad extend from here to kukukuka, a gathering place for antiques and thrift stores. The Works (Cad 59)
It's a veritable mini flea.
A hard day of searching may find the market for almost anything.
Further down, Oda (
Cukurcuma Cad 52)
Focus on old toys
For example, a small wooden sailing boat in its thirties was marked "Made by Birkenhead ".
Don't look for it: that's where I was born and I bought it for 3. 75.
Artisan fashion (
Zafer Sokak 5 in Nissan Tasi
Between Rumeli and Abdi Ipekci Cad)designer R.
Made of Indian silk ottoman-
Inspired evening dress. Made-to-
Clothing prices range from 600 to 2,400 in three weeks;
Long coat from £ 50.
Silk and cashmere (Akmerkez )
There is a cashmere sweater of about 100;
A silk shirt from £ 15.
The Spice Market is a feast of flavor.
Ekinci of vacuum packaging of hot girls (stall 22)
Together with the beluga, £ 3 and £ 30. 5oz;
Rainbow of Turkey (from £5 a kilo).
Just outside the spice market, the queue of the Kurukahveci window (
Corner of Hasircilar Cad and Tahmis Sok)
Freshly roasted Turkish coffee. Lower-
The price spice is opposite the Golden corner of Balik Pazar and is actually the fish market, but in fact, except Cicek Pasaji (Flower Passage)
The covered courtyard of the cafe.
Alisahin (Best Buy)
Mohamed pasayokusu Soto decree of the Conference of African ministers of industry, depriving Kucuk)
For 30 years, traditional Turkish baskets have been made with split chestnut.
Use his olive basket as a means of transport of logs and pistachio as a means of transport of flowers; £12. 50 each. Ev Plus (
Electric car, Ihlamur Yolu 9/13, Nisantasi)
Make it yourself-
11 embroidered laundry bags; shoe bags, 80p;
9-linen/cotton towels£11. Pasabahce (
Amazing Lowpriced glass -
Champagne flute for 50 p with colored stems for 1 pound.
Hold them in your hand
Order gift boxes from Kitap Kulubu at the bottom of the boat (
Nissan Tower West varico Naji Cad).
Traditional Turkish stringed instruments are great decorations whether you pick them or not
Find them in Do. Re-
Mi, Ticarethane Sok 65 (
Bottom of Divan Yolu).
The word "Indirim" you'll see in nistasi is not the name of the chain.
It is translated as "sales" and makes as much sense in Istanbul as in Oxford Street.
On Yagcilar Cad in Grand Bazaar, you will find an alarm clock in the plastic mosque.
Don't expect to be woken up by the Bell-
A muezzin with a record will call you to pray five times a day.
There is a fancy porcelain phone on the Cad of kaisele, £ 25; and Sirca (
In otakoy, the dreaded wall mask selling crumpled leather costs about £ 30.
Recovery area of Grand Bazaar: in Kosk (
Cad Keseciler 98-100)
Takis serves a hearty lunch.
In Fez you can read English newspapers and magazines through Espresso (
Turahmet: Stan Asvi, Turkey (
It was restored on the 18 th.
Take off your shoes for a stomachbursting set-
A meal of six Turkestani dishes for £ 11.
Booking: 212 cm 638 cm 6525 cm.
Istiklal: during the Cold War, Rejans (
It is neutral for diplomats. Brass name-
The plate retains the regular table for spoks.
Dinner for two, £ 15;
Retention is essential: 212 cm 244 cm 1610 cm.
Akmekz: he is dehexitan (
Nice piyer Cad 49)
It is a great Turkish restaurant.
A signed photo of who is on the wall in Turkey.
Dinner for two people, including wine and raki, for about £ 14. Hamami (Turkish baths)
: Hamami in Cemberlitas (Vezhiran Cad 8)
And cagalooglu Hamami (
Kazim Ismail Gurkan)
Both dates are in the 17 th century.
The Duke of Windsor, the Emperor William and the Duke of Liszt are their clients.
And Florence Nightingale. Open 8am-midnight; steam bath, £3;
Massage, £ 6.
Sean Hignett came to Islamabad with a tapestry holiday and stayed at the Acadia Hotel (
4 nights Bed & Breakfast, starting at 352, booking 0181 742 0055).
Arcadia is only one block from Blue Mosque, Aya Sofya and Topkapi and only five minutes from Grand Bazaar.
View on the roof
Amazing top restaurants. Many taxi-
The driver did not know about the new hotel: ask Adliye (Law Courts).
The dialing code for Turkey from the UK is 00 90.
Taxis are cheap and measured.
But although the driver is friendly and honest, he seldom speaks English.
Please ask your hotel to write your destination for you and bring a card with the same size hotel address. Caddesi (Cad)means street; a Sokak (Sok)is a lane.
Be sure to check your money carefully.
There are so many zeros in Turkish notes, so it's easy to distribute millions instead of thousands.
Read the AA City Pack: Istanbul, 5.
99, Lonely Planet City Guide, 6.
99, is the best guide. www. dominet. com.