the hero guitar - etched name plates

After my first attempt at luthiery with cardboard Eureka, let's take it up to a level.
It's not mandolin, it's not banjo.
Sounds a bit like an electronic product. acoustic-12-string.
It has something to do with the cigar box guitar and looks a bit like a "ric pan" which is almost entirely made of scrap and I call it "ric pan ". . .
Hero guitar.
Build one and now you can rock with your chocolate too.
If you like this, please vote in the "DIY audio" contest!
Wood: Metal: Plastic: Hardware: Music: Other: Electrical (
Magnetic pick options):Electricals (
Acoustic pick options)
: Finishing: The only thing I bought specifically for this is the edge veneer (£3)
, Fingerboard veneer (£1. 20), tuners (£3.
19 sets of 6, buy 2 sets, have enough for you to spare), and frets (£1. 03)(all eBay)
Light hand tools commonly used, but also :-
The neck and head rack are made of 6mm plywood.
Provides a template for the headbox shape, but the rest is marked directly on the wood at the top, including a "round" end to match the inner radius of the tin (body).
2 pieces are full neck size, 1 piece is only the bedside table and the fingerboard part (
Cut in half later and flip to the back to form the set
Rear head shape)
I first cut the pieces roughly, piled them up, fixed them on the center line with a straight paper clip and some scrap packing blocks, and then rolled the saw into a unit.
In the photo, there are some "extra" pieces that are not used in the final version.
The slot of the unadjustable "truss rod" enters the middle part of the stack.
Because the steel bars are slightly thicker than plywood, there needs to be a bit of a gap on the top wood.
This gap needs to be tightly attached to the bar vertically, otherwise it will not really help keep the neck straight and may make a Click!
Using a nail hole, the pva glue stacks the neck together and uses Araldite to bond the truss rod well at the top and bottom.
Put it in a place with a lot of weight and put it together when it dries.
The heel block is cut from scrap pine and is slightly thinner than the neck width.
Scroll to see it again and sand it smoothly.
Tuner installed by pilot-
Drill a small hole from the front and then use the forstener bit from the front.
Before drilling a smaller hole from the back for the post of the tuner, this hole needs to be perfect for the tuner ferrules.
Forstener bit provides a nice and neat round hole with a square bottom.
Test on plywood scrap to make sure the fit is correct!
Now you can put the tuner into the guide hole of the screw and align it.
Press a steel ruler along the main body of the tuner, forcing them to push themselves
Align and rotate into a straight line.
Use the tuner as a guide, make small pilot holes and take them back.
The body is a tin of steel chocolate.
First eat all the chocolate, and then mark the creases of the place where the neck is coming in.
I chose the seam of tin as the damage zone.
The neck here is about 50mm wide.
I drilled a row of holes opposite to separate the tin (
You can put a starting hole, see this, or get dremel through, but don't slip! )
Before putting in four mounting holes, these holes are used to screw the tin onto the heel block with screw 8.
Once these are done, cut (
Scissors, small scissors
Sew apart and fold the wings at right angles.
Clean up all these nasty edges with rough files.
Two more holes are needed, one at the tail and one under the heel block, which will later fit the neck into the tin can.
Again, these need to be cleared with screws No. 8.
Now, you can check their position against tin before the heel and tail blocks stick to the tin.
All screw holes in the tin should be aligned with some wood and screwed into it.
A few pins are used to sort out the headbox-
Neck joints, cut them into the right shape and glue them in place.
The heel and tail block can now be glued to the rest of the neck with pva, check that the heel block sweeps through the outside of the tin to see if it is completely visible, and the "square" part is mostly inside.
The tail block should extend down to the end of the neck as much as possible in order to contact the tin.
When the glue is dry, make sure the neck is straight and square before you guide the hole through the metal into two blocks of wood to remove the wood screws.
These two screws will keep the angle correct, otherwise the neck will tilt!
Now, once the lid is screwed in place, trim the lid to fit the neck tightly.
Another old scissors or iron sheet was cut here to clean the edges.
The tin cover should work properly with the neck in place.
I glued some "veneer" panels (
Waste plywood cut through the middle core)
On the side and bottom of the pesky Pine Block, make it to the thickness and make it look better.
The corners behind the sand are smooth.
Make some suitable finishes now.
The sides of the neck and headframe are covered with three separate veneers.
I don't want to try to put the curved part in the middle of a long veneer.
It is flexible, but it does not bypass these curves if it is not steamed to encourage it.
I use one of the "spare" bedside tables as a guide to steam the veneer on the kettle until it becomes softer and then push around the guide to the appropriate position.
I used some 1/2 copper water pipe fittings and pushed them into the inner corner to form the middle of the strip (
Top of head rack)
First, before the end (the nut area)last.
After that, the straight side is glue (Or iron, if there isglued)into place.
Do not try to align the edges and leave overlap on both sides to trim at the back.
You need some kind of fixture to fix the veneer, I pull all the East-West-inner together with the elastic band top and bottom, pen, copper pipe.
If you use an iron
In any case, glue this part on the edge and it's hard to get an iron there!
When everything is fully glued, use x-
Acto blade, sand it smooth.
Fit into the neck connection as best as possible.
Glue anything that looks a bit loose so it doesn't go away!
I also swept some left.
Peel off the veneer on the heel block.
Again, steam the strip to get the curve so it doesn't resist.
Trim and Polish edges.
Since this guitar has 4 pairs of strings, 4 adjustable saddles can be used. But some 12-
String guitar with 6 saddles sounds out of tune (
Intonation problem)
Because in different strings.
So, they use 12 adjustable saddles.
I bought 8 separate saddles which turned out to be needed.
The bridge is made of a scrap plate that has been folded into a suitable size.
You can use L. Angel stocks, too.
The drilling/cutting template provides guidance into the metal, eight holes are used to remove bolts, and the other eight holes are used to drill columns. -
Since the holes are very close, the drill bits here are essential!
In addition, there are several mounting holes for later use.
Cut The Corner. We're done.
I also cut several steel bars from the same sheet for the string anchor point.
Then cut the string holes to the top of the bridge (
Cut plate)
Let the strings go in and out, because it is very troublesome to pass them through.
All of these metal products have been "cleaned" by dremel sand plates, which gives a strange pearl effect.
I'm going to leave it on!
Now you can see where the square nut came from.
This allows for about 11mm adjustment based on the overall tilt/movement of the bridge.
So we should end up with a guitar.
The eight holes of the bolt should be placed to allow the NUT to touch the metal when sliding back and forth.
Note that the eight bolts are evenly spaced, but the string guide holes are not uniform.
Connect the string to the body using eight splits-
Cotter pin and two re-
In order to prevent the wood from being torn, boards must be used.
Align the plate with the center line of the neck, drill through the top, and then pass the pin through.
They should work closely together and you should be able to open the bottom plate as well!
Without some help, the strings will not stay on the square nut.
It's not enough to put a "gap", so here's Plan B: I welded the copper wire of a short length and bent it to the right-
Corner hook on each nut.
Make sure the top surface of the nut is well cleaned with a file and make sure the copper is shiny and then weld it.
Any extended wire or solder can be trimmed off after and the ground is smooth, so it is more important to arrange properly than to be very neat.
Later: I also added a fixed paper clip to keep all the bolts aligned.
Take a large paper clip and form it into a ring and place it tightly on all 8 Bolt piles.
I also "reject" the head of the bolts, clamp them in the hand drill and put them on a file so they don't interfere with the string holes.
At this point, I placed some temporary gaps in the pin "nut" to mark the position of the rope.
Just transfer the mark from the template to the nut and place a shallow V slot with the file.
"String tree" is needed to keep the string firmly on the nut and break the angle (side to side)
Leave the rope of the nut.
These are by D-
25 serial connector hardware, hex columns, "compression washers" with wings, and thumb screw bolts are easy to adjust.
Twist together with a drop of strong glue.
These can then be placed in the undersized holes in the headbox-
Check again the installation of scrap wood to dig the threaded holes.
Once you use them to make the threaded holes, remove them again, cut off the thumb screw part and polish it smooth.
I made a nut from a hard plastic toothbrush handle, cut into a certain length, polished with sandpaper to get a uniform width, and then slotted to match the pin temporary marking.
This can be decorated in place with strong glue in the future. Don't stick too hard.
Now, the temporary pin nut is carved to receive the real nut. X-
Acto or saw a few neat lines and then ground a cavity to hold the nut.
Now you can test to see how things are arranged and find that the string tree is not appropriate.
The template provided here reflects the correct location!
The fingerboard should be made of a hard piece of wood.
So, let's ignore this and keep trying.
There is no trouble with this fingerboard.
Insert your own jokes about heroes into zero.
So the nut is just for spacing and the nut slot will eventually cut deeper than the normal guitar because it doesn't set the height of the string.
Zero fret makes setting the string height almost automatic.
Calculate the fret position in the spreadsheet based on the scale length of 480mm, then transfer to the template in the GIMP and print it out.
A 3mm hard board may have been used wrong and the real luthiers will scream. . . but . . .
I marked all fret lines with x.
Acto blade and steel rules then follow up with a steel saw.
See through!
When checking the installation here, you can use fretwire/frets.
You need to be able to push the frets in with a little force.
If the slot is too narrow, you will eventually be bowed-
When frets separate the wood, the back fingerboard. The (ugly)
Cover the cardboard with a gray veneer.
Well, as you can see, the two pieces are completely added to the annoyance to hide the connection.
Try matching the grain pattern. Fret dots.
There are a lot of ways to do this, which is mine.
On the back of the veneer I cut the diamond with sharp Xacto blade.
Review the template again.
The Diamond should be in the middle of a slightly oversized veneer and in my case line up so fret 10 can join the veneer.
Save the cut out points and keep them in the right direction as they will return later.
Now, the veneer can stick to it and form a shape that matches the fingerboard, when the glue is dry, re-cut (X-acto)and re-kerf (hacksaw)
All the troubles.
At this point, you can complete the fret board in many ways :-
I went with number 2.
The same is true of Rustin's Ebony stains. Wear gloves!
Just wipe the stain with a cloth and let it dry.
Because you ignore all the common sense that using grain fillers on open textured wood like Ash, stains are sucked into the grain and look uneven. This is normal.
That stain is what I want.
Now cast off the stain!
Lightly, the veneer is very thin.
After a short period of time, you should see the effect of this village, where the grain will jump out. Stop sanding!
The diamond can go back now, and there is a dot of pva glue under each diamond with a short sand on it to level it up.
Then spray it with paint to protect it.
Leave it good a few days before processing, even if it says "touch dry in 15 minutes" on the jar ".
Now, the frets can be tapped in place gently.
A pair of pliers/pliers should be able to cut off most of the excess parts, and you can also grind/Polish/archive the edges carefully with a slight bevel smooth.
If your finger moves along the edge, nothing can be caught.
I also applied strong glue on both ends of each fret to make sure it was locked.
I was going to put a logo on the bedside table, but now I have two extra tree holes to cover.
This solves two problems.
Make a logo with the theme "Cadbury" using the spare parts of the gray veneer.
The shape is hand cut and rounded to fit between the string trees.
Tape it down with double stick tape, then use a small engraved drill mounted on a micro raft/dremel drill bit in the fixture to fix its height and position.
Remember, this single board is 0.
6mm thick, no need to cut!
The fixture is made of waste plywood, pipe drill bits and some adjustment bolts to set the height.
Test height with scrap!
Stick the guide sign to the wood and pass through very slowly.
Now mix the pva glue and the water-based Blue-black ink (Parker/Quink)and over-
Fill in the etched nameplate.
It shrinks when it dries, so fill it up.
When dry, sand.
Sand, more sand until the word becomes clear. An x-
The Acto knife will be picked out, leaving a small point or debris.
The same method applies to the point of the neck.
Copy the position of the finger plate to one side of the neck and drill the veneer lightly.
Then, fill it with a mixture and let it dry.
Sand it back and smooth the spots.
Screw the neck into the appropriate position to establish the level of the rope connection point to fit the lid.
I need 9mm here.
Then Mark and drill holes on the lid so that the cotter pin passes through.
I marked them off the pins and drilled them from the back to avoid damaging the paint work on the lid.
I enlarged the hole to allow some wiggle room and the metal plate showed up so it looks OK.
I made a mini scratch plate with the edge of a clear Packer CD.
This allows to see the artwork, but more importantly, it does not get scratched when passing through the pin string.
A little dremel milling is required to cut the slot for the pin head from the template.
You can cover the center with black paint or leave it as it is.
If you do draw it, you need to cover the center part and scrub it with wire wool to get the key to the paint.
To protect the paint, the main scraping board comes from the CD jewelry box.
The shape is marked and cut by Freehand (
It's the dremel jig again)
Then sort it out.
It is tied to the lid in 3 places (
One of the mounting holes in the figure was later removed for pickup).
Rough cut out, polished smooth and use x-
Acto blades are used to scrape/tilt edges at the top and bottom.
Silvo or T-cable
Cutting can be used to polish the remaining scratches, leaving a clean piece of transparent plastic.
The finish needs to be applied before assembling the rest of the metal products into the headbox.
I used Rustin's wood stain (pine)
Apply a little color to birch veneer strips and plywood.
Wipe it with a cloth and let it dry.
I also got the pin/nut dirty but didn't get the finger plate area dirty.
After drying, cover all dyed wood with 7 layers of Rustin's plastic coat.
I mixed 4 parts of the coating, 1 part of the hardening agent and 2 parts of the thinner.
Ventilation is required (
Don't do this indoors! ).
Each coat is brushed and you can repeat it in 1 hour.
It does take quite a few coats to get the right thickness, so don't be stingy.
Any small dust bump or "nibs" can be knocked off with a 600 sandpaper "wet" or "dry" paper lightly wiped.
After the last coat was put on, it was cured in at least two days.
Two days later: it looks smooth!
But it's not a mirror or something that needs more coats. . .
This will be a satin finish!
The last lamp passed with "wet or dry--
To make it look uniform and dull, wet this time.
It is wrong to take a glossy surface to make it dull, but it will get better.
Wipe the paste with a cloth, then rub it again with 0000 of steel wool and some wax polish. Still dull.
Then wipe it clean, buff and buff.
Now the shine is back!
Finally, the bedside table can be assembled correctly.
Screw everything in place.
If the pilot holes of the tuner screws are tight, re-drill them a bit larger.
It looks shiny.
At this point, I built the place where the bridge was going.
Meet tin cover again about 9mm.
To protect the lid, the bridge is placed on a thin sheet of cardboard underneath.
The strings were put on and became tense, and it was time to figure out where the bridge and fingerboard were.
The fingerboard should slide under the strings.
When "open", you are looking for tuned strings, and when you press the strings when you are annoyed on the 12 th, you will find that there is an exact octave.
Separate for all 8 strings.
If the strings are generally sharp, then the bridge needs to move and vice versa.
You can do this by ear or tuner.
Start at about 480mm and adjust accordingly.
In my case, action (string height)
It was too high in troubles on the 12 th and later, causing the notes to be very sharp and difficult to hold down.
Putting the bridge down is not an option: it is already flat on the lid.
So I made a cone gasket (plywood again)
Adjust the entire fingerboard to a better angle.
It's only a few millimeters, but it's important!
After setting up the right position for the bridge and having enough wiggle space for the adjustable saddle to adjust all the notes, I marked (
And pilot drill)
The bridge leads through the lid to the wood below.
Right now, I'm dirty (black)
And apply plastic on the edge of the cardboard/plywood and polish it.
It's ready to stick in place!
Because the neck does change shape a little while stretching, it's not a big deal, but it does change the shape of the fingerboard, so I decided to glue the fingerboard when installing and stretching the strings
This is a hassle, but works well with the help of four clips and a straight plate to protect the frets.
Apply the glue to the gap between the strings (lengthwise)
And spread it side by side with a spatula under the strings.
Slide into the finger board and clamp.
It is expected that some glue will be squeezed out, and the wet cloth is essential here.
Adjust the fixture to remove any final deviation from the fingerboard.
In my case, I checked to see if there were any buzzing fingerboards on and off my neck, indicating that the fingerboards needed a little extra squeeze here and there.
Yes, if you use a narrow enough caul, you can play the strings with all these clips!
Let the glue dry.
The neck is almost correct when the clip and caul fall off.
Remove and remove the strings for the last time!
The tension of the strings slightly changed the shape of the lid and body.
I added some screws to keep the lid in the right position and the tin has wood blocks inside to get them screwed in.
These holes are drilled through metal and then bonded with wooden blocks (araldite)behind them.
Later, the guide hole of the screw enters and the No. 4 screw with the washer holds it down.
The bridge, which is still free to float, needs to be tightened or bolted.
You can screw it in place and I used a couple of threaded spacers and bolts to give me an adjustment space to improve/lower it.
Give full play to the cotter pins so they don't have a lot of guidance as they wrap around your own pickup truck and that's what I do.
Cut two pieces of plastic into upper and lower plates.
Super magnet with glue 4 spacing of 14mm (the inter-String distance)
, All the same bars point up.
To find the pole: stick all four together and mark one end with a pen.
Slide down the magnet and mark the end of the remaining magnet. Repeat.
If you stick the whole thing to the steel plate, the next step will be easier to do, but still be careful not to pinch your fingers and stick yourself to the steel plate!
On the top plate, screw four steel screws and they need to be attracted by the magnet.
Please do not use brass or stainless steel.
Wrap the underside to the desired depth with a steel gasket and cut off any excess points from the screws.
Glue all the washers together.
When you're done, there should be about 9mm clearance, magnets and washers.
Wrap the magnet with clear tape as a barrier and place araldite in 3 spaces between them to keep them separate/put in so they don't move in the future.
Stick the plate above and below together, that is the steel gasket that is glued to the magnet.
The magnet will try to align it and if not, hopefully correct, convince it directly!
I used an old post office relay coil as the source of the wire-
It is heavier than the normal pick-up line, so it is easier to handle, but that means there will be fewer turns for the installation.
I wound the washing machine with a layer of transparent tape and then started winding and winding. . . .
Relay coil installed in dremel Chuck (not powered! )
Pay for the pick-up coil mounted on the hand of the gear-
The winding machine starts to start and guide the wires.
If it is broken, you can connect it by welding the end together, but check if it is really welded.
You don't need to isolate these cracks, just wrap the rest of the layer directly and bury it.
Check the coil--
Remove the coating from the winding and use a multimeter to check the resistance from the beginning to the connection, if you have a reading, please continue reading until the next break or if your space is running out!
Finally, remove the coating and check it for the last time.
When you're done, put the last layer of transparent tape on it and connect a short shield cable to the end of the coil.
Through the "strain relief" hole on the side plastic cheek.
Glue the shield cable and push the cheek into the glue.
Finish it with the last plastic cheek and two faces (
I used some white cards)
Stuck inside again
The final coil resistor is 550 ohms, much lower than the usual guitar pickup, but it makes a very bright sound even with these old strings.
With the super magnet, the signal is strong enough to be used on the amp or guitar FX pedal.
I wrapped the whole pickup with "hero: Mini Cadbury fudge" because if you can have "soap pickup" and "Lipstick pickup" you can buy a chocolate bar on this.
If you can't face all the wires that wrap around, or just want more sound (banjo-ish)
Sound, then you can also install a piezoelectric disc on the lid.
Connecting shielded wires (
Screen of brass disc, center/signal of White Center)
Stick it under the lid, where the lid can move freely.
You'll get some noise handling though, more than a magnetic pickup.
Add a jack socket hole to the body and install the socket with a short shield cable length. Signal (centre)
Go to the top of the Jack and the ground/screen enters the body of the jack.
I also put a loop of twisted wires around the neck of the plastic socket to get good body grounding.
The socket of the metal case can eliminate this step.
I also added two more ground wires to the lid (
Bolts for Scratchplate)
And the hole through which the bridge passes (
Grounding the bridge and strings).
The end of this line is exposed about 1 inch and wrapped around the bridge bolts when the lid is installed.
Connect two ground wires with the pick screen, then connect to the Jack screen by soldering, and then connect pick (signal)to jack (signal)
And isolate it. Wiring done.
No need to worry about the control, basin or switch of the final assembly Time: Open the lid, install the bridge, string it up (
Maybe even some new strings)
The tone was checked and adjusted for the last time.
Check each string separately and expect the fatter string in each pair to need a longer length than the thin string.
You may have to put down the tension of the rope and move the saddle back and forth every time.
Later: I added a piece of plastic/rubber tube to the sharp side of the bridge and put my hand on--
This is easy to remove for reconnection and doesn't seem to need to stick to it.
I also made a strap with some straps.
Fold and sew the end to prevent wear and tear, and then pass the eyelet through the washing machine (on the back-side)
And press it down.
The existing tail screws should be cut through one end
Screws screwed into the back of the headbox provide a second anchor point.
It would be wise to put it in the CADB
I will.
However, I set this in open G tuning (GDGB)
This means that the tension of the strings is roughly the same as what they do on a regular guitar.
You can adjust anyway, but keep in mind that you need to make your own string gauge.
Too tight, they may break or bend the neck.
The tone will be broken, too relaxed.
The old recycled strings I used are as follows :-(
Electric: extra light set 9 P/12 P/16 P/22 W/32 W/42 W)(
Acoustics: lamp 12 P/16 P/24 W/32/42/52)
But the last step of the tuning crib table shows a better set of matching strings, using only extra electricitylights.
This crib sheet can be printed and attached to the bar code on the back of the can!
Attach a fret calculator with a scale length of 480mm (
Open Document Format)
And some scale plans (
300 DPI = full size)
Layout in PDF and PNG format.
The Mp3 file shows the sound on the pickup (clean)
, Into an amplifier, when recorded with a microphone acoustics.
Thank you for reading here all the time :)